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Young hatchlings can be kept in 10-20
gallon enclosures with a basking area set at one end. Use a light
bulb or heat bulb to direct heat toward the basking area so the
surface temperature stays around 110 degrees. A piece of driftwood
or cork bark can be placed at an angle to allow the lizard to climb
closer to, or away from, the light as needed to regulate body temperature.
The cool side of the enclosure should not exceed 85F for any length
of time. Night time temperatures can drop into the 60's without
worry, but warmer nights will make your dragon eat more and grow
faster. WARNING: We advise against the use of electric "Hot
Rocks", unless they are equipped with a temperature control
device.
In addition to a heat source, Bearded Dragons also need exposure
to light similar to that produced by the sun. We currently use Lumichrome
1xx tubes by Limiram Corp*. We have been using these lights for
about 6 years now and I can honestly say that nothing comes close
to their effectiveness. Use a bulb that extends the entire length
of the closure, and make sure the lizards can climb to within 8"-12".
An appliance timer is recommended to ensure that the heat and lights
are turning on and off at the same time each day. Of course, nothing
can replace true sunlight and your lizard will benefit from any
exposure to unfiltered sunlight, provided the temperature is within
reason. When sunning your dragon outside, make sure to provide a
shaded area for escape from the heat. WARNING: Never place a glass
enclosure in direct sunlight as the magnified heat will quickly
cook your lizard.
Hatchlings should be fed small (1/4" or smaller, and never
larger than 1/3 the size of the lizards head) crickets every day
for best growth. Crickets should be dusted with a good calcium supplement
before every feeding. In addition, a multivitamin such a Herptivite
should be used once a week. A small portion of various leafy greens
is also recommended daily. Bearded Dragons will quickly learn to
drink from a water dish- provide a shallow dish with 1/4"-1/2"
of clean water.
If a lizard refuses to eat, you can try to assist him, but never
force anything into your lizards mouth. Mix a little chicken baby
food with a pinch of calcium supplement and add enough water to
make a thick liquid. Slowly feed the lizard though a dropper, allowing
him to catch his breath as needed. Don't force it, but feed the
lizard as much as he will take. Don't allow the lizard to get dehydrated
and chances for recovery are usually pretty good.
If two or more dragons are kept together, watch for individuals
that become intimidated and don't eat or bask as often as they should.
If this happens, it's best to move that lizard to a separate enclosure
and allow it to gain weight before being reintroduced. Once the
lizard has been observed eating and basking, and weight/size gain
is obvious, he can be housed with others that are the same size.
Try to offer fresh leafy greens the first thing each morning. Crickets
should be offered when the lizards have had a chance to warm up.
For optimum growth, crickets can be offered again in the afternoon,
but make sure that the lizards have at least 90 minutes to digest
their last meal before the heat is turned off for the night.
Salad Mix: Try to use a variety of dark, leafy greens like collard
greens, kale, mustard greens, turnip tops, arugula, dandelion greens,
chard, ect. All greens should be pesticide free and chopped into
pieces small enough for the intended lizards. Be sure to remove
any hard veins that may cause your lizard to choke. As the dragon
grows, chopping becomes less important.
**Remember to remove any fecal matter as soon as you see it, and
any food and water dishes that have been contaminated by feces,
and the chances of spreading disease are greatly reduced.
A must for any dragon owner is the book by Phillippe de Vosjoli
and Bob Mailloux, The Bearded Dragon Manual. Another book that we
highly recommend is The Right Way To Feed Insect Eating Lizards,
also by Phillippe de Vosjoli. Both Books can be purchased for under
$15, so there is no reason not to own these valuable manuals.
Care Sheet provided by Dragon's Den Herpetoculture.
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